Rosemary - Herb Of Remembrance

 Rosemary, Upright: (Rosmarius officinalis) Labiatae. Perennial.

Rosemary, Prostrate: (R. prostratus) Labiatae, Perennial.

Propagation: seeds, cuttings. Spring.

Position: Open, sunny.

Soil: Average, well-drained.

Height: Upright - 1.5m Prostrate - 30cms.

Part Used: Leaves.

Rosemary is known as the herb of remembrance, & symbolises constancy, probably because the fragrance is long-lived. It is best known as a flavouring for lamb. It first grew in the warm countries of the mediterranean region. Rosemary can be used for Bonsai or trained as a topiary (prostrate)

Rosemary can be a centre piece to a formal herb garden, form a hedge, or a decorative border. It makes a great patio plant for a tub or large pot.

A Rosemary hedge looks fab. Mark out a 84 cms wide space, work the soil. Dig in compost so the soil will hold moisture. Mark 2 rows 42 cms apart & 21 cms from the edge of bed, the length of bed. Plant well established rosemary along these rows 42 cms apart & staggered. Pruning will encourage branching. which fill in the centre & keeps the hedge bushy.

Cultivation:  

Rosemary is best cultivated from cuttings. Seeds can be used but not always successful. The prostrate variety can also be layered, which is done by pinning down a stem from the parent plant to the soil, using a U shaped wire & covering the stem with a little soil. When the layered branch has developed a good root system, cut it away & plant in a sunny position.

Pink Upright Rosemary, as a hedge

Harvesting & Processing: 

Rosemary can be used fresh at any time. Cut branches before flowering begins, shaping the bush as you go.  Sprays of fresh rosemary can be wrapped in foil, sealed & kept frozen for weeks. Or chop leaves, mix into butter, allow to set, cut into squares & seal. Leaves can be set in ice cube trays.

Various Uses:

Culinary -  Rosemary is very pungent. This herb helps with the digestion of rich & starchy food. It gives a delicious flavour to lamb, beef, veal, pork, rabbit, goose, duck & sometimes chicken. Rosemary is used in liver pate & spiced sauces for pasta. It goes well with eggplant, zucchini, lima beans, brussel sprouts & cabbage. It tastes a treat in herb bread & scones. The flowers can be candied.

Medicinal: Rosemary stimulates the memory. Wear a sprig when studying. Today, rosemary tea is suggested for memory & also for headaches. In herbal medicine, it is used as a nerve tonic & digestion. It is thought to strengthen sight.

Prostrate Rosemary

Cosmetic: Extract of rosemary in shampoos & hair tonics revitalise the scalp, prevents dandruff & encourages new & healthy growth with shining lustre, especially brunettes. Oil of rosemary goes into eau de cologne or in pot pourri.

Companion Planting: Rosemary & sage are good companions, stimulating each other. Rosemary repels carrot fly. It attracts honey bees when in flower. Dried sprays of rosemary help to repel moths in cupboards & drawers.

Lamb Racks with Garlic and Rosemary

Ingredients

Serves : 4 

• 4 lamb racks (with 3 cutlets per rack)
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced
• 2 long sprigs of fresh rosemary
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 2 tablespoons wholegrain mustard
• 2 tablespoons mint sauce

• Directions

  Preparation:40min  ›  Cook:20min  ›  Ready in:1hour 

  1. Preheat the oven to 200˚C. Trim any excess fat from the lamb racks. Cut small slits in the top of the lamb with a small, sharp knife. Insert slices of garlic and small pieces of rosemary into the slits. Sit the lamb on a plate.
  2. Whisk together the honey, wholegrain mustard and mint sauce and brush over the lamb racks. Allow to marinate for 20 minutes in a cool place.
  3. Put the lamb racks into a baking dish and spoon on any sauce that may be left behind on the plate. Bake for 20 minutes for medium–rare, or until cooked to your liking, basting a couple of times during cooking with the honey mustard mixture.
  4. Remove from the oven and allow to stand, covered, in a warm place for 10 minutes to allow the juices to be absorbed back into the meat. At this stage you can either cut the lamb into individual cutlets or leave the rack intact and serve as is.
  5. Serve with boiled potatoes and steamed asparagus.
  6. • 1. http://allrecipes.com.au

Preserving Herbs

While I seem to be on a herb roll this month, I thought I might as well keep this theme running. So, we have built our herb garden, & had  a bumper harvest. What do we do with it  all now?  You need herbs during Winter as well. Timing is everything when you are harvesting herbs for preserving & storing. Whether you use the herbs for medicinal purposes, to make a tea or using in cooking, it is important to gather them at the point in their growth cycle when their volatile oils are most concentrated, & at a time of day when there is the least moisture on them. Treat them with care, preserve straight away & store them away from the light.




Gathering Herbs

Leaves are at their most fragrant, & richest in oils, before any flowers have opened. Flowers are harvested as soon as they have fully opened. Seeds should be gathered as soon as they're ripe, while roots need to be left in the ground til the end of the growing season, when they have the most nutrients stored.

Flowers, leaves, seeds & stems should be harvested early on a dry day, as soon as any dew has dried.  Always use sharp scissors or secateurs to cut stems, to avoid damage to the plant. Shake off any insects, pick off damaged or discoloured leaves & flowers & put straight in water. Keep away from strong light, which will draw out the volatile oils. Harvest seeds each day, as they ripen. Do not use plastic bags as condensation will rot the seeds.

Drying Herbs

I did a clever thing  last year & asked for a dehydrator for my birthday (thanks Mum). It is a great way to dry your herbs, hygienically - keeping dust out of your drying herbs is a must.  I still have select bunches hanging off little hooks in my pantry. I love the smell. 

Drying requires circulating warm , dry air & no light. Herbs can be dried over several days in a cool room, more quickly in a warm atmosphere, but never hang them in a steamy kitchen or bathroom.

Leaves are best dried on the stalk, though large leaves like Borage can be separated & dried on a rack. Seed sgould be hung up to dry inside a paper bag to collect seeds as they fall. Flowers for drying should be cut from their stems. Roots must be brushed clean & then cut into 2.5cms slices.

Separate stems into small bunches to allow warm air to circulate around them & hang bunches well away from the wall. Place loose plant material in a single layer on a rack. Or place on baking trays & dry in a cool oven with the door slightly ajar. Turn herbs frequently. Flowers & leaves are dry when they're crisp & rattly, roots when they are woody.

Using the microwave is an alternative, though due to different power settings, you may have to experiment. Fold sprigs of herbs in a paper towel & microwave on high for 30 seconds. Check the herb & continue in 30 second bursts until the herb begins to dry a little, then 15 second bursts until crisp. Immediately seal dried herbs in jars.

Storing Dried Herbs

Gradually strip the dried leaves off the stem & crumble slightly. Pull marigold petals from the flower centres. Store dried herbs in glass or pottery jars, never plastic, & clearly label. Dark coloured jars are the best, as they stop light getting in. Store clear glass in a cool, dry place. Keep a small "working" jar of the herb in the kitchen & replenish as needed. This keeps the bulk away from the light & air.

Freezing Herbs

You can open freeze herbs on the stem, or pull off the leaves & freeze them whole. Either way, spread the herbs on a baking tray & freeze them uncovered. Once frozen, pack into lidded containers. OR crumble lightly between your fingers to get frozen chopped herbs. Again, stored in a lidded container & label. OR pack chopped herbs (crumbled between fingers) into ice cube trays & top with water. When frozen, turn the cubes into labelled plastic bags. The cubes can be popped into soups & casseroles straight from the freezer.

Small sprays of herbs or edible flowers can be frozen in ice cubes, or in fancy shaped biscuit cutters wrapped in foil & filled with water. Match the herb to a drink ie: lemon verbana with lemonade.

Basil: Best harvested in early autumn before the cold weather turns leaves limp & yellow. For best flavour, cut long leafy stalks for drying before flowering. Spread on racks in a  shady place. Do not hang in bunches. Oven drying will scorch the leaves. Fresh basil can be chopped & placed in water in ice cube trays. Basil, with pine nuts, garlic, oil & parmeson cheese can be made into pesto & frozen. Basil butter can also be frozen.

Rosemary: can be used fresh at any time. Cut branches before flowering begins, shaping the bush as you go.  Sprays can be fresh rosemary can be wrapped in foil, sealed & kept frozen for weeks. Or chop leaves, mix into butter, allow to set, cut into squares & seal. Leaves can be set in ice cube trays.

Parsley:  parsley can be cut for drying any time. It will keep its green colour & flavour if dried quickly in a preheated oven to 120 C. Turn oven off, spread parsley heads (snipped off stems) on a large baking tray & leave in oven for 15 minutes, turning several times util crisp dry. Store in air tight containers away from light. OR chop leaves finely, mix with a little water & put in ice cube trays in the freezer. Sprays of fresh parsley can be wrapped in foil & frozen. parsley butter freezes well too.

So there a a few examples. Every herb is different. Any good herb book, or the internet will help you with specific herbs. I will be featuring herbs as I go along, but there are many.

Herbal Vinegar / Oil

Vinegar is easy to make & can contain one herb or a blend. These are used in salads, marinades & vinaigrettes or any recipe where vinegar is called for. Try a splash of herbal vinegar in the poaching water of eggs, which will keep the egg whites from spreading & gives a lovely herbal flavour to the eggs. 

Half fill a jar or bottle with fresh picked basil, or salad burnet & add white or red wine vinegar until full. Allow to steep for 2-3 weeks before use. 

The same method is used for making oils. Nothing looks lovlier than decorative bottle with sprigs of rosemary, or basil in oil. And the oil can be added to most things.

Herb Flavored Oil  2 cups extra virgin olive oil, warmed on the stove 4 sprigs fresh oregano 4 sprigs fresh basil 4 sprigs fresh thyme 2 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns 2 Tbsp. crushed dried red pepper  Wash the herbs and dry thoroughly. Place the herbs, peppercorns, and red pepper and oil in a heavy saucepan and heat to a simmer, reduce heat slightly and cook just below simmering for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain through several layers of cheesecloth, or old tea towels, into sterilized glass jars. Store in the refrigerator at all times and use within one week.  Italiano Oil Drizzle over warm foccacia bread. 1/4 cup chopped fresh sweet basil 1/4 cup chopped fresh oregano a sprig of rosemary 1 1/2 cups olive or canola oil Garlic Basil Vinegar 1 head of garlic 2 cups fresh basil leaves 4 cups red wine vinegar Separate the garlic head into individual cloves. Crush the cloves slightly with the flat side of a knife and peel them. Wash the basil leaves and pat dry. Place the basil and garlic in a 2-quart or larger sealable glass jar. Pour the vinegar over the garlic and basil, cover, and store in a cool dark place for 2 weeks. Strain through a cheese cloth or coffee filter into clean glass jars or bottles. You can add a whole garlic clove or two to each bottle before closing. Lemon Thyme Vinegar With a vegetable peeler, pare a thin spiral strip of peel 6 to 8 inches long from a lemon. With a chopstick or wooden skewer, push lemon peel and 6 rinsed sprigs (each 3 in. long) fresh thyme into a clean 12- to 16-ounce bottle. Fill bottle with white wine vinegar (vinegar should cover herbs completely) and seal. Store in a cool, dark place at least 1 week or up to 4 months. *NOTE:  It is  recommended that homemade flavored oils always be refrigerated and should be used with in 2 to 3 days if using the cold infusion method or within 1 week for the warm infusion and 1 month for the oven method. Cold Infusion Method: Combine herbs and oil. Pureed herbs disperse their flavor more quickly but don't look as good. Use with in 2 to 3 days. Store in the refrigerator at all times. Warm Infusion Method: In a saucepan, combine herbs and oil. Heat to a simmer, reduce heat slightly and cook just below simmering for 15 minutes. Remove from heat and strain through several layers of cheesecloth into a sterilized glass jar. Label with the date and refrigeration instructions. Store in the refrigerator at all times. Use with in 1 week. Makes approximately 1 cup (250 mL). Oven Method: Place oil and chopped vegetable or herb in a 2 cup (500 mL) glass measuring cup. Set glass measuring cup on a pie plate and place in a 150°C oven for 1 hour. At the end of heating, the vegetable pieces should be a medium brown colour and crisp. If not, continue baking until they turn brown. Remove cup to a rack to cool for 30 minutes. Line a small strainer with a coffee filter or several layers of cheesecloth. Strain oil into a clean glass jar, cover and store in refrigerator at all times. Use within a month. Makes 1 cup (250 mL).

Happy Grubbing

Tam

The Wicking Bed - a Giant Self Watering Pot!

Have you ever heard of the Wicker, Wicking or Wicking Worm Bed? I was fortunate enough to do a weekend course several years ago with Alanna Moore - a master dowser            (http://www.geomantica.com ) near Castlemaine. As we are surrounded by trees, the roots tend to steal the water & nutrients from my garden beds.

"The wicking worm bed is a highly productive growing system which not only produces more food from limited water, but also recycles waste organic material to provide plant nutrient and capture carbon. The essence is to form an underground reservoir of water or pond contained by a waterproof container or liner below the surface of the soil. Plants are productive because they have a continuous supply of water and nutrients." Colin Austin

The Wicking System was devised by Australian engineer Colin Austin (ozzie ozzie ozzie oy oy oy), wicking garden beds (and wicking worm beds) are gaining popularity as a wonderfully water wise garden bed alternative.

Wicking beds have a number of benefits, both environmentally and horticulturally.  Firstly, it’s a fab set up for thirsty gardens (like vegie patches) in areas that have lower rainfall, or are affected by water restrictions.  Wicking beds also deliver the water were it’s needed (the plant roots), which minimises water wastage, and can also help to reduce the risk of  fungal foliage issues.  Also, wicking beds are said to be more effective at sequestering atmospheric carbon then many other traditional types of garden bed set ups, meaning it’s a win for us, and the planet.

     

Wicking beds water plants from below rather than above. This works by filtering moisture through a network of absorption tanks and drainage sand to take water directly to the roots – where it’s needed most. Wicking beds work like a big sand or gravel sponge as water moves from the bottom to the top and then wets the soil that the vegies are growing in.

Step 1.
Remove the soil from your existing 5x3 meter garden bed and then level and terrace the ground for the new beds, which must be completely level for even water distribution. Put a layer of soft-sifted soil on the bottom for cushioning —to protect the plastic from sharp objects (you can use sand instead), and create a waterproof bed with the 200um plastic sheeting. Make sure no sharp objects can cut into the plastic sheeting.






 Step 2. Add the agi-pipe, stretching 

the full length of the bed.

Step 3.
 Cover the bottom of the bed to just above the pipe with the screening rocks.

Make sure you have enough space left for soil plus mulch: 330mm (about 1.08ft)

Step 4.
Lower the PVC pipe to the bottom of the bed, and position it in the 'mouth' of the agi-pipe, then  cover the rocks with the shade cloth, to separate the soil from the rocks and pipe. Then drill a drainage hole at the opposite end of the bed, at the level of the screening cloth - or 330mm from the top of the bed.

NOTE: The water will wick up no more than 300mm through the soil, so the soil level should be 300mm above the water line.

Step 5.
Sift the old garden soil into the bed, removing stones, seeds, weeds, and roots.  Or buy good quality soil. This will save you time & your back.

Step 6.

Have you a pH soil testing kit? Might be a good investment. Add soil then add a generous mixture of organic compost, mushroom compost, lime, and blood & bone, –leaving a space at the top for mulch.

Alkaline pH 7 soil is perfect for above ground veggies. Most root veggies like a slightly acid pH soil, round 5.5 - 6.5 pH.

Step 7.
Fill the top with a layer of organic sugarcane mulch, and drill the drainage holes. When finished, add the water through the pvc pipe - test how long it takes to fill the bed to the drainage hole, and measure the water level in the pvc pipe, so you can know in future, by looking into the pvc pipe, when the water is low.

http://www.maireid.com/wickingbeds.htm

• Ensure the overflow/drainage hole or pipe (at the 300mm point) does not become blocked or non-functional.  Give this a good clean out every few months.
• Be aware that, as a closed system, everything you put into the bed stays in the bed.  Overuse of fertilisers (even some of our trusted organically derived ones) may see the soil sour fairly rapidly, leading to an increase in saltiness.  This is certainly NOT ideal for many of our productive vegies and herbs.
• Greywater (that is, water from the bathroom and laundry) should NOT be used in a wicking bed at any time
• Compost and soil mixture will need to be topped up seasonally, as will the mulch.  A good idea may be to lightly turn the top 300mm of growing area with a garden fork at this time, to “freshen up” the soil.
• Cover the open end of the PVC pipe (the water inlet) with a tile, brick or similar (old pair of pantyhose).  This will prevent mosquito larvae from hanging out in the tube or garden reservoir.

Growing Herbs in Containers

 I thought I would carry on with this theme with a quick Blog on growing Herbs in containers. If establishing a full on herb garden seems daunting, or you only want to grow basic herbs for cooking, read on.

Container Suggestions

Hanging baskets

Terracotta pots

Bath tubs

½ wine barrels

Wheel barrows

Old wash tubs

Glazed pots

Troughs

Large saucepans

Teapots

Polystyrene boxes

Old tins

Jam Jars

Make sure there is plenty of drainage holes in pots and containers used for your herbs.

Growing Herbs in Pots Outdoors

 Growing herbs in pots or containers is easy if you follow these simple guidelines: 

1. In the bottom of each pot or container, add about an inch of gravel. What this will do is enhance drainage and prevent the roots from getting root rot if you water them too much. 
2. Water them more often than plants that are planted in a garden. This means that if you can water them two times a day, they may do a lot better than with only one watering. 
3. Don’t put the container on top of cement. For example, don’t line your sidewalk with pots. Cement gets pretty hot , and that heat will get transferred to the soil in the pot. It’s easy to burn out the plant if herbs grown in containers are placed on hot cement. 
4. Feel free to move the containers around to better places in your yard. Treat the plant as if it were your little child or pet, and learn to look for signs of stress. One type of stress is not enough sunlight. Are you placing the containers in a location outside in your yard that gets morning sunshine or evening sunshine? The different times of day can affect your plant’s growth. 
5. Bring in all herbs before the first frost. This is most important for tarragon and mint. Chives are another type of herb that really will benefit from this strategy. These herbs go dormant for a period of time and then once the springtime comes, you’ll have rapid, fresh new growth. 
6. Periodically, do add plant food - every 2-3 weeks OR a slow release fertiliser that will last the whole Summer. 
7. At the end of the season, know that the annual plants will be saying goodbye to you forever. They won’t be back next year. So harvest them and thank them for all their goodness. Prune the perennial plants so they will spring back in a few months.   

Growing Herbs in Pots Indoors 

Growing herbs in pots or containers can also be done inside the comforts of your own home. This is the best of all, because while you’re cooking, you can easily snip off a sprig of fresh parsley for garnishing a tasty entrée, or get a few tablespoons of fresh coriander for homemade salsa and chips. If you grow herbs in pots indoors, here are a few guidelines that will make it easier: 

1. Before you decide to grow herbs indoors, carefully evaluate your kitchen. Does it get enough sun?
2.  Knowing what to put the herbs in is also a big decision. You can try window boxes, hanging baskets, or inside pots and containers stacked on a metal rack that is beautifully decorated. 
3. Just as herbs planted in containers outdoors, you will still need about  an inch of gravel lining the pot for excellent drainage. 
4. The type of soil you need for indoor herb plants is not the same as what’s out in the vegetable garden. For example, it wouldn’t work to scoop out garden soil and put it in a pot. The best soil is 2 parts sterilized potting soil: 1 part coarse sand or perlite. This should be used in containers outside the house as well. 
5. Adding a teaspoon lime can “sweeten the soil” for the herbs. That dosage is for a 5-inch pot of soil. 
6. Herbs indoors will need to be watered. Twice daily is best. If the top 1 - 2 cm or so has dried out, water. Try misting them for that outdoor experience. They will love you for it.
7. Just because an herb is planted inside away from harsh thunderstorms and flooding doesn’t mean that it will live forever. Annuals live for only one year. Harvest them from your containers; bundle them and dry them from the ceiling or dehydrate them. Perennials will be back next year but still need pruning. 
8. Indoor herbs will rarely be as vigorous as outdoor herbs, so be gentle when harvesting - pick a few leaves here & there, rather than denuding the whole plant.

Happy Grubbing

Tam