Bare Rooted Trees

                                                

Winter is a great time for planting. Getting plants in the ground now gives them plenty of time to establish before the hot summer. And it is the best time for planting bare rooted trees, especially fruit trees & berries. It is also cheaper to buy bare rooted trees at this time of year (sometimes 50% cheaper).

Bare-rooted plants are available in winter - June, July and August. After August it's too late because they start to shoot and then transplanting becomes a problem.

it is recommended that pruning is done at planting time. The main reason is because when the trees are dug, the roots are pruned, and for a balanced tree the tops should be pruned to match the root size.

When you're selecting a bare rooted plant, try to ensure there is no obvious physical damage and look for a good, even branch structure. If it's grafted, or budded, watch for any growth emerging from the base, just remove it because that's the root stock reappearing. 

What are Dug, Ball, or Bare Rooted Trees?

Field dug trees are trees that have been grown in a cultivated field then once they are dormant (not growing or after leaf drop) they are dug, and either have their roots shaken bare of soil (bare rooted) or their roots kept in a ball of soil and wrapped in hessian to hold the ball together (balled/burlapped). Root balling is the preferred method for lifting hardy evergreen trees as it minimises root disturbance.

Bare rooting is applied to very small evergreen trees and shrubs such as English Box, Pine and Spruce, and small to medium sized deciduous trees and shrubs like Roses, Lilacs, Fruit trees, Birches, Maples, Oaks, Berries etc.

Planting Instructions

1. Prepare your planting site in advance.Try and plant the tree as soon as you get home and don't leave it lying in the sun while you're digging. Before planting remove any diseased, or even damaged, roots. Dig a hole about 40cm wide and deep. If the site soil is very poor, sandy or gluey, combine it 50/50 with very well rotted compost. Don't use manure - trees need to adapt to their site.

2. Keep the roots moist at all times. Never let them dry out. When bare root trees fail, they do so because the roots get dry. Soak them in a bucket of water (mixed with a dash of seaweed extract or worm wee) for at least half an hour before planting.

3. When planting ensure good contact between the soil and roots. As a general guide ensure the bud or graft is about 10 centimetres above the ground. Spread the roots out in a natural position. Break the backfill soil as finely as possible, firm it in around the rootball, and give the tree a little shake to settle the soil in at the base of the trunk. Sometimes it helps to mound a pile of soil at the base to help support the root system. Then backfill, wiggle the tree as you go, and add water to remove any air pockets.  Settle the plant in with seaweed solution or worm wee to further settle the soil and help overcome transplant shock. 

4. Prune the branches so they are in balance with the root system. Cut branches to about 30 centimetres from the main trunk, and to a bud. Then to encourage a nice branching habit remove the leader.

5. Stakes are only required in exposed sites. If trees are reasonably protected from the wind, they fare much better if they are pruned by a third (always to an outward facing bud) to compensate for some loss of the roots in the nursery. If you have to stake, use one either side of the tree, and run a stretchy tie between the two. Keep it reasonably tight and low on the tree's trunk to anchor the rootball, but allow some flex. This helps develop a strong tree.

6.Do not use fertiliser when planting bare root trees or balled trees and shrubs in the dormant months as they are dormant and don’t require fertiliser. Add fertiliser in Spring.


Happy Grubbing

Gardenia Trellis